A counterfeit can copy a logo. It is far harder to copy the way a garment is cut, the weight of a zipper, or the way hardware tarnishes with age. When a piece arrives for authentication, our experts work through it methodically — comparing what is in front of them against the record of how the brand actually makes things.
Construction and make
We start with the build: stitch density and type, seam finishing, how the armscye and hem are assembled, and the symmetry of the pattern. The tolerances a workshop holds are difficult to fake, and small inconsistencies in a single piece often reveal a reproduction faster than any label.
Materials
Fabric and metal tell their own story. We assess weight and hand-feel, weave and knit structure, the character of the leather and its finish, and the composition of precious-metal pieces. Materials that photograph convincingly can feel entirely wrong in the hand.
Hardware
Zippers, buttons, rivets, and clasps are where reproductions most often fall down. We check the maker marks, the finish, the weight of the pull, and how the hardware has aged relative to the rest of the item.
Provenance
Where there is a paper trail, we use it. Original receipts, care labels, packaging, and serial numbers are compared against the Archive's records and the details of the piece. Provenance is supporting evidence, never a substitute for examining the item itself.
A verdict, recorded
Every examination ends in a verdict — authentic or not — that is entered into the Archive and issued as a permanent, scannable certificate. The certificate records our professional opinion at a point in time and can be verified by anyone.
Authentication is expert judgment, exercised item by item and recorded for anyone to check.
If you own a piece you would like examined, our authentication service is available for items bought anywhere.